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There are many supplies out there to draw with. All drawing and sketching supplies, whether graphite, lead, charcoal, pastels, pencil crayons, etc, all come in different degrees of hard to soft. The softer is great for blending, shading, or for placement during the initial sketching. The harder is better for sharper detail. The best thing to do when starting out is to use them and see how they work, and to see what feels right for you. Once you have picked out your drawing supplies and paper, you will also need a good sharpener (or piece of sandpaper for charcoal and pastels).

One thing I love to use is a kneaded eraser. You knead it between your fingers until soft and it does not leave any residue. It’s also less abrasive which is important because of the the surface of the paper is so fragile. This is especially true when doing watercolors since you don’t want to destroy the sizing in the spots where we erase. It would show up later when the paint soaks into the paper. When using a Kneaded eraser try pressing it onto the paper then pulling up to lift the mark off the paper. It’s also nice that it sticks to your sketch book and can stop your pencil from rolling away. I have a lot of these erasers laying around that have been sculpted into various shapes and figures.

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I started out drawing (a lot!). At some point though, we all get to where we want or need more. What do we do with all the drawings we’ve created? The answer is that we can refine them by using better paper and pencils, using ink, or getting some paint. At this point we need to start seeking out supplies; especially if our goal is a finished piece of artwork.

So let’s start with paper. Whether you need paper for your own sketching enjoyment or want to be more professional; the paper you choose can be a crucial factor to achieving the results you’re looking for. So how do you know you’ve got the right paper? There are papers specially designed for almost every media out there. Things that need to be considered include the fiber, finish, sizing, weight, and format.

Paper is made from Fibers; usually from plants like cotton, hemp, bamboo, rice, straw, or rattan. Cotton papers are the most common and 100% cotton rag is considered among the highest qualities. They can handle heavy erasing without showing wear and tear and can last over one hundred years. Not all cotton paper is the same, though. There are those with lesser quality than others, so you usually get what you pay for. Cheaper papers usually contain more wood pulp; which naturally has an acid content. Like a dead tree, these can deteriorate over time. Paper usually states if it’s “acid-free”; making them less likely to break down over time (becoming yellow, brittle, or crumbly.)

Finishes generally come in 3 types: rough, cold press, and hot press. Rough paper is a very textured sheet, which is air-dried without smoothing or pressing. This gives it a more natural pulp like surface. This is a great choice for media such as Watercolor as it allows the pigment to settle into the hollows of the paper. Rough is also used for Pastels because any texture (or tooth) grabs the pigment. Cold press paper has less texture and is slightly smoother than rough paper. This paper is better when more small details are needed. The paper is pressed between cold metal rollers when it’s still wet. It’s excellent for Inks, drawing, pastels, and watercolors with more detail. Hot press paper is very smooth. In this case the rollers are heated to create a very smooth surface much the same way as a hot iron smoothes your clothes. When using watercolors on this surface, it works very differently and can be difficult to work with. I suggest hot press only for very detailed work.

Sizing is added to the paper or applied to the surface. This makes the paper less absorbent when using watercolors or colored inks. The more color absorbs into the paper, the less brilliant the color will be. In other words; sizing helps keep colors vibrant when using media that has a liquid property, so that it sits more “on top” of the paper. Dryer pigments, such as pastels, which already sit more on top of the paper, don’t require sizing as much. Some artists like the way their paintings look without sizing. Therefore, they remove it - usually in a tub of water to soak it away. It’s all a matter of preference. Try different ways or ask others how they got the look that you wish to achieve.

The Weight of your paper is also an important consideration. Thicker, heavier paper can handle more water or paint without curling or buckling. With watercolors a 60lb paper will shrink and curl, where as a 140lb weight will handle it better, and when you get to 300lb weight the paper won’t buckle at all. The different weights also handle paint differently so you have to find what works well for your media. Ask around what other artists prefer as this can save you a lot of time spent on the trial and error - not to mention saving you money as well. I like to use a 140lb cold press paper for my watercolor paintings.

Paper also comes in different Formats: single sheets, pads, sketchbooks, blocks and rolls. This is another preference of the artist. What is it you are going to paint, how big, and what media are all questions you have to ask yourself. Is it going to be framed or just something you can go back and visit. Go see what’s available and decide what your needs are; taking into account your budget. Remember that cheaper papers will not work the same as the more expensive ones and you often get what you pay for.

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So where do you start? Well, you are on the right track as wanting something is the first step. I think that everyone has some artistic ability, but some people are just more focused on it than others. If you find that you would like to get started creating some art, start right now!

You don’t need some fancy studio or special supplies. All you really need is a pencil, piece of paper, and an eraser. You will need that eraser a lot at first, but the more you draw, the less you will find you need it.

Don’t be afraid of that first mark to the paper. If you find that the white paper is intimidating you, try crumpling it up or use it as a coaster for your coffee cup. Dirty it up, step on it, scribble on the back… anything to get rid of the intimidation. Remember that whatever you decide to draw doesn’t have to be perfect, you just have to do it. It does get easier with practice. Stay focused on what you want to accomplish and you will get there.

101 drawing:

Remember when you were a kid? You just drew things the only way you knew how. Stick drawings - using a circle for a head and sticks for arms and legs. Maybe a triangle for Mom’s dress. All artists start out the same way. Just like a sculptor starts with a skeleton, then builds upon that form by sculpting the clay; you add to your stick drawings by putting clothing, hair, etc. on them.

A house gets a roof, door, and windows; building upon the basic stick drawing until it becomes an art piece.

So when you look at what you want to draw, what are the shapes you need to draw first? Artists drawing a human figure use the same method. It may look like scribble, but to get the form down you need to work fast before the model moves. All this is, is a bunch of shapes overlapping and joining to make up the body. We call this “gesture drawing.”

What you need to do at this point is just practice. Then we can take things to the next level. Next up will be discussing some basic supplies for getting closer to that framed art piece.

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